Seafood Sopas and Bangin' BLTs

originally published May 7, 2008

Switcheroo: Clearly, La Rosita (840 Hull Rd., Suite B, 706-543-8854), a taqueria and torteria that adjoins the Quick Spot gas station and convenience store on Hull Road very near its junction with Highway 29, was preceded in its space by a more mainstream-America-friendly eatery, whose paintings promising “hot dawgs” and subs still adorn the windows. Much of the crowd that frequents it doesn’t seem to have noticed the change, either, although it is considerable.

La Rosita has an impressively large menu, especially for a gas station taqueria, which includes a lot of seafood options (including whole fried fish and several wonderful-sounding sopas made with squid, octopus, shrimp, oysters and more). Some of the staff is native to Georgia, and some of the waitresses have a little more trouble translating items like jaiva (crab) and tinga (conveyed as “chicken,” but seemingly more about the preparation of the meat, which involves spiciness, redness, shredding and stewing, than the protein itself). A special of roasted chicken available by quarter or half was simple but tasty, on a big platter with the usual rice and beans. The tostada with tinga was piled high and, while as difficult to eat as tostadas generally are, was worth the effort. Tacos are often the best thing to order in a place like this, as you can get an idea of the kitchen’s range and execution of a number of cooking methods and ingredients, not to mention obtain more variety in your meal at a very low price. La Rosita’s meats are deeply flavored, although the texture isn’t always perfect. The chunks of lengua (tongue) are tender, but a little big, and I tend to prefer my carnitas on the crispy side. Still, the al pastor was quite tasty and the chorizo is worth the trip. Spicy and fatty, with a flavor that blooms with chewing, it certainly needs the double tortilla it’s encased in. La Rosita is open for lunch and dinner every day and takes credit cards.

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Choo Choo: At long last, the space at the Pulaski-facing end of the Leathers Building has been occupied by a restaurant, something that’s been in the works for, literally, years. Trax (675 Pulaski St., 706-543-6011) makes good use of the beautiful interior and view, adding some sound dampening materials on the underside of the second story, but not covering up the glorious view of the railroads and beyond that one can take advantage of by walking up the stairs.

The place is friendly to those who want to hang out, study or play Scrabble in a quieter environment than downtown, but the menu could use a little tweaking. It’s not super ambitious to begin with, which is no problem, and there are some nice touches (roasted chipotles and avocado on the BLT, which doesn’t skimp on the bacon), but there are also some indications that it’s a new business.

The bread, for example, needs upgrading. It’s a crucial part of a sandwich, especially one as simple as chicken salad, and if it’s dry, it can ruin the experience. The “fruit cup,” similarly, should be made with higher-quality ingredients, even if it is a good option for a child. The tomato basil panini, while refreshing, should perhaps be hot if listed under “hot food.” And the service, as often happens in Athens, is sweet and enthusiastic, but not exactly efficient. Nonetheless, the young people running the show seem willing to dive in and learn, and there’s no question the restaurant/coffee shop (which makes a point of using French press on its brews) is a boon to the growing neighborhood. Trax is open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday, and takes credit cards.

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What Up? Signs announcing a restaurant named El Azteca coming soon have appeared on the exterior of the former Tres Amigos on Oconee Street. A Smoothie King is about ready to open in the Green Acres Shopping Center on Barnett Shoals Road. Your Pie focuses on customizable personal-size brick-oven pizzas and is open in the Beechwood Shopping Center, on the T.J. Maxx side. Mama’s Boy has obtained its beer and wine license, due to some sensible actions on the part of the Athens-Clarke County Commission, and is open for dinner Thursday through Sunday. Taqueria el Sol de Zacatecas, next to the gas station on Tallassee Road, is now just El Sol and is under new management. Just Pho and More is open on Baxter Street.

Hillary Brown